Renovation Guidelines

This material is presented for informational purposes only. Herron-Morton Place holds no liability for inaccuracies that may be contained herein. Individuals are urged to contact the Indianapolis Historic Preservation Commission for complete guidelines as may apply to your project.

Doors

Approval is not required for storm doors provided they conform with guidelines below. An exemption of portions of these standards is available to low-moderate income homeowners (owner-occupants).

Original doors should be repaired and retained or, if beyond repair, replicated.
If an original door is lost, its replacement may be an old or new door compatible with the building style. New doors should be wood, unless the original was a different material, and should match the original in size, shape and proportions.
Transom windows and door trim should be retained or reinstalled if there is evidence of their original existence.
Wood storm and screen doors are preferred. Aluminum or other metal may be considered if finished in a color to match the door or trim, fitted properly to the door opening with no spacers, designed to not obscure the primary door design, and there are no decorative details or simulated muntins.
Hardware on a new door should be simple, unobtrusive and compatible with the building's style.
If the original hardware is missing from an historic door, replacement hardware should be compatible historic hardware or unobtrusive and compatible new hardware.
Original garage doors which are significant to the character of a garage should be repaired and retained. If beyond repair, they should serve as a model for the design of replacement doors.
Replacement garage doors should be compatible with the garage design.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Avoid eliminating original or adding new door openings, especially on significant facades. Any new openings should be distinguishable from original openings.
Avoid sliding glass doors.
Avoid discarding original door hardware. If possible, it should be repaired and retained.
Avoid altering the size of garage door openings or changing single doors to double doors unless there is a documented access problem.

Masonry

Damage to masonry is usually caused by movement or water infiltration. Causes should be identified and stopped before undertaking repairs.
If mortar is missing or loose, the joints should be cleaned out and repointed using a mortar mix which closely matches the composition and color of the original.
When removing mortar from joints, take care not to damage the brick edges.
Whenever partial or total foundation replacement is required, the new foundation walls should be faced in materials which match the original in appearance. Reuse of the original materials on the face of the foundation is preferable.
Whenever replacement brick or stone is needed, use salvaged or new material which closely matches the original in size, color and texture.
Whenever masonry has been painted, it is usually advisable to repaint after removing all loose paint. Old paint which is firmly fixed to the masonry will usually serve as an adequate surface for repainting. Methods which attempt to remove all evidence of old paint can damage the masonry (softer masonry is more prone to damage).
Any cleaning should be done with the gentlest method possible and should be stopped at the first evidence of damage to the masonry. Test patches should be used to assess the effect of any proposed cleaning method.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Bricks should not be replaced unless excessively spalled or cracked. Consider reversing a brick to expose its good surface before replacing it with a new brick.
When selecting a replacement brick, avoid using what is commonly called "antique" brick which consists of a mixture of bricks in a wide range of different colors and types. Bricks on historic buildings were usually uniform in color.
Masonry should not be replaced or covered over simply to eliminate evidence of past cracks, repairs, and alterations.
The cleaning or dirt, grit and weathering from masonry surfaces is usually not necessary unless it is causing damage or is unsightly. In any case, the goal should not be to make the masonry look new. Old masonry neither can nor should regain its original appearance.
Avoid power grinders. Mechanical equipment is cumbersome and even the most skilled worker will tire or slip and cause irreversible damage.
Avoid sandblasting, high pressure water blasting (over 600 psi), grinding, and harsh chemicals.
Waterpoof and water repellant coatings should be avoided. They are generally not needed and can potentially cause serious damage to the masonry. Also avoid covering masonry with tar or cement coatings.

Paint Colors

Approval is not required for painting existing buildings. Staff approval is required for paint colors on new construction. An exemption to paint colors and painting is available to qualifying low-moderate income homeowners (owner-occupants).

Remove all loose paint and clean the surface before repainting. It is not necessary to remove all old paint as long as it is firmly fixed to the surface.
Paint colors are essentially a personal choice. They are reversible, have no permanent effect and have usually changed many times throughout the history of a building. There are two general approaches which are appropriate for selecting a color scheme.
Identify through research the original colors and repaint with matching colors. Previous paint colors can be found by scraping through paint layers with a knife, analyzing the paint in the laboratory, or finding hidden areas which were never repainted.
Repaint with colors commonly in use at the time the building was built.
Consider using different shades of the same color when variation in color is desired but there is a danger of the color scheme becoming too busy.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Avoid monochromatic (single color) schemes on buildings which originally had vibrant, multiple and contrasting colors.
Avoid highly polychromatic (multi-color) schemes on buildings which were originally painted with restraint and simplicity.

Porches

Repair and retain original porches.
If rebuilding is necessary due to structural instability, reuse as much of the original porch and decorative details as possible.
Assess the significance of a non-original porch before considering removing or altering it. A porch added to a building at a later date should not be removed simply because it is not original. It may have its own architectural or historic importance and is evidence of the evolution of the building.
Original porch floors should be repaired or replaced to match the original.
If a porch is missing, a new porch should be based on as much evidence as possible about the original porch design, shape, size, location and details. Check the following sources for evidence:
- Old photographs
- Historic Sanborn maps
- Paint lines defining porch roof outlines
- Paint lines defining porch post design
- Remnants of the porch foundation
- Similar houses in the neighborhood (helpful but not always dependable)
- Oral descriptions from previous owners
Where little or no evidence of the original porch remains, a new porch should reflect the typical porch form of the era while being identifiable as a recent addition not original to the building.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Avoid alterations to historic porches, especially on primary facades.
Avoid replacing original stone steps.
Avoid replacing original wood floors with concrete.
Avoid placing new porches in locations which never had porches, especially on significant elevations.

Roofs and Roof Elements

Original slate should be repaired rather than replaced. If replacement is necessary, new or imitation slate is preferred. Consider retention of good slates for installation on roof slopes visible to the street. If replacement with slate is not economically possible, use asphalt or fiberglass shingles in a pattern and color similar to the original slate.
Preferred colors for asphalt or fiberglass roofs are medium to dark shades of grey and brown. Solid red or green roofs are appropriate on some early 20th century buildings.
A flat roof which is not visible from the ground may be repaired or reroofed with any material provided it remains obscured from view.
Adding a slope to a problem flat roof may be considered if it is not visible from the ground or does not effect the character of the building.
If a drip edge is used, it should be painted to match the surrounding wood.
Gutters and downspouts should match the building body and/or trim color.
Repair and retain built-in gutters or rebuild them in a similar configuration using alternative materials.
Where exposed rafter ends were original, roof mounted or half-round hung gutters are preferred. Consider channeling water runoff on the ground rather than installing gutters when none originally existed.
Flat surfaced skylights with frames which match the roof color may be considered if they are inconspicuous and do not alter the building's basic character.
Original chimneys which contribute to the roof character should be repaired and retained. If no longer in use, they should be capped rather than removed.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Avoid alteration of the roof slope and shape unless past inappropriate alterations are being reversed.
Avoid white, light, or multi-colored shingles and rolled roofing.
Avoid the addition of dormers on roof area which are significant to the character of the building.
Avoid covering exposed rafter ends with a gutterboard and never cut or alter decorative rafter ends to accept a new gutterboard.
Avoid skylights on prominent roof slopes which affect the building character. Bubble style skylights break the roof plane and should be avoided unless they cannot be seen from the street.
Avoid placing mechanical equipment such as roof vents, new metal chimneys, solar panels, T.V. antenna/dishes, air conditioning units, etc. where they can be seen from the street or effect the character of the building.

Trim and Ornamentation

Repair and preserve the original trim and decorative elements, even if worn or damaged.
Replace with a replication only if damaged beyond repair or the material is unsound.
Missing decorative details may be added when there is evidence that they existed. Evidence can be found from old photographs, remnants left on the building, paint lines where parts were removed, nail holes, old notches, and cut-outs in the siding and trim.
Observation of details on similar historic buildings can assist but is not always conclusive.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Do not fabricate a history that does not exist by using ornamentation that is foreign to a building or has no evidence of having existed.
Decorative elements should not be removed simply because they are not original to the house. They may have significance of their own or as evidence of the evolution of the building.
Decorative details should not be added to parts of a building which never had such details. For example, window and door trim was sometimes different and simpler on one side, both sides or the rear of the house.

Windows

Approval is not required for storm windows provided they conform with recommended guidelines below. An exception for qualifying low-moderate income homeowners is available.

Windows on an historic building are important elements defining its architectural character and historic significance. Their original materials and features should be respected and retained. Replacement should only be done if necessary and if similar to the original.
Window replacement should be considered only when one of the following conditions exists and can be documented:
- The existing windows are not original and are not significant.
- The condition of existing windows is so deteriorated that repair is not economically feasible.
Rather than replacing windows to attain energy efficiency, existing windows should be repaired and retrofitted using caulk, weatherstripping, modern mechanical parts, and storm windows. Some windows can be slightly altered to accept insulated glass.
Storm windows should fit window openings exactly, without the use of spacers. They should be painted, anodized, clad or otherwise coated in a color to match the windows or trim. They should be compatible with the window pattern (no simulated muntins or decorative details), should not obscure window trim and may be made of wood, aluminum or other metals, or vinyl. Consider interior storm windows.

Original window trim should be preserved and retained. Only badly deteriorated sections should be replaced to match original. Decorative window caps or other details should be added only if there is evidence that they existed originally.

Window shutters (also known as blinds) may be installed if there is evidence that they once existed on a building, and then, only on those windows which had shutters. For evidence, look for old photographs, remaining hinges and hinge mortises. If the building did not have any shutters and you wish to use them, put them on the inside of the window.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Avoid replacement windows not similar to the original in size, dimensions, shape, design, pattern, and materials. Example: metal, vinyl cladding, snap-in muntins, and tinted glass are not considered similar to original wood windows.
Avoid creating new window openings or eliminating original window openings. This should be considered only when necessary and must be avoided on significant, and/or highly visible elevations.

Wood Siding

Unrestored wood siding may look to be beyond repair but is usually in better condition than it looks. The preferred approach to wood siding is as follows:
- Retain all of the sound original wood siding.
- Repair and retain split boards by nailing and/or gluing with waterproof glue.
- Leave concave or convex boards as they are unless there is a problem. If necessary, repair by carefully inserting flat screws in predrilled holes and gradually tighten.
- Putty nail holes.
- Rotten sections should be cut out using a saw, chisel or knife. The new piece to be inserted must match the original in size, profile, and dimensions. It may be a new wood board or a salvaged board.
- Missing boards should be replaced with new or salvaged wood boards to match the original.
- Siding should be primed and painted after being scraped of all loose paint and washed.
Replacement of original siding is generally justified only by documented problems with the material's structural condition. Aesthetic reasons generally do not justify replacement. As a rule, the following are conditions which generally do justify replacement:
- Badly rotten wood
- Boards with splits (especially multiple splits) which cannot reasonably be repaired
- Burned wood
- Missing wood

NOT RECOMMENDED

Avoid removing the original siding. It provides important physical evidence of a building's history and adds immeasurably to a building's historic character. Even if replaced with new matching wood siding, the irregularities which record the building's evolution through time and give it its character are lost. In short, the historic significance of a building where the original siding is removed is diminished. As a rule, the following reasons generally do not justify replacement:
- To remove paint
- To avoid repairs
- To hide past or planned alterations
- To increase energy efficiency
- To restore the "original" appearance (to look "new")
If it is covered with insul-brick or other material, do not assume the original siding will need total replacement. Assess the situation only after total removal of the covering material. Assessment based on partial removal may lead to the wrong conclusion.
If replacement of siding is justified (partial or total) avoid using any material other than real wood with dimensions, profile, size and finish to match the original. Hardboard, plywood, aluminum, vinyl or other synthetic or unnaturally composed materials do not look, feel, wear, or age like the original and therefore should be avoided.
It is neither necessary nor, in many cases, desirable to remove all old paint from wood. Methods to accomplish total removal of paint can be damaging to the siding and should be used only with great care. The use of high pressure water blasting (over 600 psi), sandblasting, rotary sanding or a blow torch should be avoided.

These guidelines are intended to help individual property owners choose an appropriate approach to individual issues which arise when working on historic buildings.

The approach chosen will depend on factors such as the budget, the eventual use of the building, and the owner's personal objective. The guidelines are meant to indicate a range of alternative approaches which may differ depending on the overall approach chosen but which are, nevertheless, compatible with the character of Herron-Morton Place. Design standards and guidelines are not meant to restrict creativity but are meant to suggest appropriate approaches and to guard against unsympathetic actions. The rehabilitation of existing buildings in Herron-Morton Place is an important historic significance and character. This is especially true because most of the buildings have yet to be rehabilitated.